Mac New File Ctrl N Cmd N Save File Ctrl S Cmd S Save As Ctrl Shift S Cmd Shift S Save For Web And devices Ctrl Shift Alt S Cmd Shift Option S Open File Ctrl O Cmd O Close file Ctrl W Cmd W Close All Alt. So here we have lot of shortcut keys to use Photoshop faster and effectively. Today we all want shortcuts in life so why not in Photoshop.
![]() Save For Web Shortcut Photoshop Install It SoYou can install it so that it shows up in Photoshop’s menus for easy access. Under its simple user interface, it uses an advanced/proprietary method that goes beyond the approach outlined below in order to provide more optimal results than would be practical to do manual. This script takes care of all the critical steps for you to get amazing results with minimal effort. And, also, other keystrokes work fine-like 'save as'.In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to use my free script to do the work for you, how to sharpen for the web manually, how my approach compares to other common approaches with Photoshop/Lightroom, and how web sharpening should be used in combination with capture and creative sharpening.You can sharpen your own images using the workflow described below, or you can simply download and use my free web sharpening script. FYI, when I select it with my mouse in the menu the save for web tool works just fine.However, a much better option is to install it in Photoshop. You can simply go to File / Scripts / Browse and run the script as needed. This gives you the ability to apply sharpening locally, use the “Save for Web” interactive controls to interactively optimize JPG compressions settings for the best file size and quality, or even convert to the P3 colorspace for Instagram (P3 is available on Photoshop CC for Mac only).There are two ways to run the script. Lightroom includes some convenient options, but again you can get better results using other methods and it does not give you control over cropping. For example, I have set -S to run my web sharpening script anytime I need it.Photoshop includes the “export as” and “save for web” utilities, but they do not take care of sharpening for you, and “export as” does not let you crop. You can even assign a convenient shortcut to it (via Edit / Keyboard Shortcuts in Photoshop). Many images are treated as if they are in the sRGB colorspace, regardless of whether that is true or not. For example, if you have an adjustment layer like curves in your image and convert from ProPhoto to sRGB, the image will change because the points in the curve are specific to the ProPhoto or sRGB color spaces and cannot be automatically adjusted for you.My free sharpening script does this for you, and it always does it on a duplicate copy of your image (the original is not changed).Even though color management and web browsers have been around for more than 25 years now, we still do not have broad support for proper color management on the internet. The reason is simple: resizing and converting color spaces on the flattened image creates better results than you get by doing those steps on the layered image. And while saving as a JPG will flatten the image automatically, it is better to do this manually first. Save as a JPG file with appropriate settingsLet’s walk through each of these steps in detail…Unless you are sharing with another Photoshop user, the preferred file format is nearly always JPG. That way, if you decide to play with different approaches to sharpening, you won’t have to redo this step.If you use my free sharpening script, conversion to sRGB is automatic. If you want simplicity, stick with sRGB.Conversion to sRGB can occur anytime after you flatten the document, but I prefer to do it early. However, you wouldn’t want to send that same file elsewhere and you may be setting yourself up for frustration if you try using different colorspaces for sharing images from a phone. You can safely upload images in P3 there. So even though many monitors support more expansive color gamuts (such as P3 or Adobe RGB), it is nearly always best to convert to sRGB when exporting to the web.One exception to this is sharing images on Instagram, as they have built support for the P3 color profile into their platform. And you may wish to protect your high quality originals from theft or misuse. You’ll frequently get higher quality results when you upload the exact sizes recommended for a particular service than if you leave resizing to their system. This reduces file size significantly. Select “ Bicubic (smooth gradients)” or “ Bicubic sharper“. You should not force the dimensions in this step, as you’ll distort the image by squishing it here instead of cropping it in the next step. The other dimension may not match exactly, so let one of the dimensions go longer than needed for now. Choose the desired height or width in pixels. It also depends on what your doing there (normal post, page banner, etc). The best choice depends on which platform you’re using (Facebook, Instagram, etc). Ignore the resolution, it has absolutely no effect.There are an endless number of optimal sizes for sharing online. You can safely ignore the other methods for downsizing (see the Adobe site for more details). Office 2010 download for macYou may also use this as an opportunity to give you image a bit more pop by adding sharpening. So sharpening after resizing is an important step to maintain quality. If you have the “maintain aspect ratio” option checked, the height will be automatically set if you change width (and vice versa) so that the full image is used.When you reduce the size of the image, it may naturally appear more soft. For what its worth, 1080 pixels wide and 566-1350 pixels tall for Instagrame is ideal for Instagram at this time.If you use my free sharpening script, just type in the desired final dimensions for width and height. For that reason, I recommend you simply Google something like “best image size for Instagram” to get the latest advice. Or if you are concerned with halos, try 0.5. If you need to emphasize larger details, you may try a larger radius. Start with 100 amount, 1 pixel radius, and threshold of 5. Regardless of any capture or creative sharpening you do on the master image, it is critical that you do this final output sharpening step after resizing to get the desired results.There are several good options for sharpening: Multi-stage sharpening via Filter / Sharpen / Sharpen. Use the fade amount to control the amount of halo suppression, tonal width determine how far from black/white you want to suppress, and the radius controls how far from the edge to suppress (so 1-2 pixels is generally a good choice). If you wish to reduce halos, open the shadow and highlight controls (use shadow controls for dark halos and highlight controls for bright halos). Start with 100 amount, 1 pixel radius, reduce noise of 10-20%, and “remove” set to “lens blur”. Smart Sharpen offers a little more control over suppression of sharpening halos, if you’re willing to get comfortable with the highlight/shadow controls. You may then increase or decrease the sharpening amount to get the desired amount of sharpening. Instead, resize to 1.67x the final dimensions and run Sharpen (this filter has no options).
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorMichael ArchivesCategories |